By Anjali Solanki
Maheshwari handlooms trace their origin to Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar, the revered 18th-century ruler of the Holkar dynasty of Indore, whose visionary leadership ushered in what is often called the Golden Age of the region. During her reign in the late 1700s, Maharani Ahilyabai not only developed Maheshwar through monumental architecture and public works but also sought to empower her people with sustainable livelihoods. Recognizing the potential of traditional arts, she invited skilled weaver communities—many of whom had previously woven fine fabrics for the Mughal courts in Mandu—to settle in Maheshwar and pass on their craft.
These artisans began producing elegant, lightweight textiles that reflected both Mughal finesse and local sensibilities. The Maharani would present these handwoven masterpieces as gifts to royal dignitaries and Peshwa kings, establishing the fabric’s regal reputation.
Under her royal patronage, the tradition of Maheshwari weaving flourished. What began as a community initiative for employment soon became a hallmark of Madhya Pradesh’s rich textile heritage, giving rise to the now-iconic Maheshwari sarees—known for their lustrous texture, delicate motifs, and harmonious blend of cotton and silk. While the sarees are still in demand, the weavers simultaneously face challenges.
We spoke with Alok Bichhave, a Maheshwari Mandloom Saree Manufacturer since 1962 to understand the market dynamics, evolving demands, and challenges in sustaining this heritage craft. A few excerpts:
Growing Demand
Alok notes that demand for Maheshwari sarees has surged this year, thanks to the popularity of breathable, lightweight fabrics for summer, the rise of e-commerce platforms offering direct-to-customer access and a global shift towards eco-friendly and sustainable fashion
“Buyers are drawn to the sarees for their elegance, comfort, and heritage value,” says Alok. Prices typically range from ₹2,150 to ₹5,999, making them accessible for both casual wear and wedding collections.
What Today’s Consumers Want
Today’s conscious consumers are demanding more than just beauty. According to Alok, customers prefer natural and sustainable dyes and authenticity matters as buyers actively seek genuine handlooms over imitations
“Brands that emphasize ethical sourcing and cultural preservation tend to gain more trust and loyalty,” he adds.
Challenges Facing Maheshwari Weaving
Despite the growing popularity, the industry faces several roadblocks:
- Competition from powerloom products, which are cheaper and faster to produce
- Rising costs of silk and zari, making authentic production more expensive
- The slow process of natural dyeing, which affects scalability
- A declining number of skilled weavers, especially among younger generations
- Market saturation, leading to pricing pressures and reduced margins
“Balancing tradition with modern design sensibilities is one of the hardest challenges,” says Alok. “You need to innovate without losing the soul of the saree.”