Craft tourism, craft cities, craft economies—these terms took center stage during a recent roundtable discussion held at AnanTaya in Jaipur, where prominent designers, educators, and craft advocates came together to express growing concerns about cultural misappropriation and the erasure of Indian artisans’ identities. The discussion was sparked by recent controversies involving global fashion houses like Prada and Dior, which have showcased Indian-inspired designs without giving due credit to their sources.
AnanTaya co-founder Geetanjali Kasliwal voiced deep concern over the growing trend:
“Craft is a living tradition in India. Ours is a collective culture, and our crafts reflect that—often, entire families work together on a single piece. While international brands should be commended for promoting craftsmanship as luxury, misappropriating our culture without acknowledgment is unacceptable. If a Kolhapuri chappal brings prestige to a global brand, the artisan behind it must also benefit.”
Meenakshi Singh, founder faculty at the Indian Institute of Craft and Design (IICD)—Rajasthan’s only government-initiated design institute—and founder of Khatu Design, offered a critical but hopeful perspective:
“At least this conversation is happening now. If brands like Prada are highlighting Indian crafts, it’s a wake-up call. The government must recognize handicrafts as a vital industry, not a sunset sector. We need policy reforms that empower artisans to claim rightful credit. And let’s ask ourselves honestly—how many Indian designers credit their artisans?”
Pavna Mehta Joshi, co-founder of Threads of Identity, emphasised the imbalance in global appreciation:
“Foreign brands treat Indian crafts as exotic muses. They copy designs and sell them at premium prices. If you’re inspired by India, acknowledge the source. Give credit where it’s due—and support the artisan community behind it.”
Designer and educator Swati added a pointed cultural critique:
“I remember someone saying: ‘Everyone wants a piece of India, but no one wants the Indians.’ Crafts are taken out of their cultural context and stripped of their roots in FOREIGN NATIONS. If Prada’s team is truly inspired, they should have collaborated respectfully after proper research.”
Sonal Chitranshi, CEO of FORHEX and a designer working closely with grassroots artisan brands, summed up the sentiment:
“India has always been a giver. Our design philosophy is rooted in sharing. But that doesn’t mean others can take without giving back. True inspiration must lead to collaboration, not exploitation.”
The panel proposed an ambitious cultural initiative—establishing Craft Capitals across India, where each city is celebrated for its signature craft. This, they said, could boost craft tourism and reaffirm India’s identity as a global hub of heritage, creativity, and sustainable luxury.
The debate follows an uproar over Italian luxury house Prada showcasing India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals in a global fashion show without proper attribution. Dior, too, has been criticized for allegedly replicating Indian crafts without acknowledging their origins.
As India’s craft economy continues to attract global attention, voices from the heart of its creative community are demanding not just admiration—but respect, recognition, and rightful credit.
