Dangling from rotating poles, dancing to evade flaming cow dung cakes—if you thought Shigmotsav was just a colorful carnival, here’s a side you might not have seen before.
“Rice is cooked on people’s heads.” This is Varun Hegde’s favorite story to share about the Shisharanni ritual as he guides travelers into Goa’s villages every March, where the locals prepare for Shigmo—the vibrant harvest festival that heralds spring.
Varun pauses, waiting for the dramatic gasp that always follows his tale.
The True Spirit of Shigmotsav: Beyond the Grand Parades
For many, the essence of Shigmo lies in its grand city parades featuring dazzling floats and masquerades. But away from the main roads, deep within Goa’s villages, an ancient and deeply spiritual celebration unfolds—one rooted in mythology, devotion, and thrilling rituals.
Varun, a cultural explorer from Soul Travelling, specializes in uncovering Goa’s offbeat traditions. Alongside photographer Daniel Dsouza, he has witnessed firsthand the esoteric, spirited gatherings in the state’s hinterlands. This Shigmotsav, we step into their world to uncover Goa’s hidden traditions.
A Celebration of Homecoming and Mythology
March in Goa is a season of revelry. With the harvest complete, farmers put aside their ploughs, and the state transforms into a cultural spectacle. Streets brim with folk music, dance, and mythological reenactments, celebrating the return of brave soldiers and legends from Hindu mythology.
While ‘Vhadlo Shigmo’ dominates the cities with its elaborate parades, the lesser-known ‘Dhakto Shigmo’ in the villages embraces rituals steeped in folklore. The air reverberates with the beats of the ghumat, dhol, mhadle, and tashe (percussion instruments) as men invoke the Gods, offering gratitude for a bountiful harvest.
Legends That Shape the Festival
At the heart of Shigmo are rituals reenacting ancient lores—Holika’s fiery fate, Prahlad’s resilience against his father Hiranyakashyap, the tale of Kamadeva, and the victorious return of warriors. These stories are brought to life in village festivities, where faith and endurance take center stage.
The Thrilling Rituals of Shigmo
Faith is the foundation of Shigmo, evident in the many dramatic festivals that accompany it. Take ‘Chorotsav’ in Zarme village—known as the ‘festival of thieves.’ Villagers atone for their ancestors’ wrongdoings by enacting an age-old beheading ritual. “Participants are buried in the ground with only their heads exposed, reenacting the legend of young men who were once executed here,” Varun shares.
Then there’s ‘Gadde’ in Kudne village, where villagers dance around the Holi fire from midnight until sunrise. “No one can leave, and phones are strictly forbidden,” Varun explains. “It’s believed that those in a trance are lured into the forest by a devchar (spirit) holding a burning lamp.”
Firewalking and Daredevilry: Shigmotsav’s Daring Side
The ‘Lairai Zatra’ in Shirgao village is another test of devotion, dedicated to Goddess Shri Lairai. Here, devotees dance through blazing pyres, unharmed, driven by unwavering faith. “To witness or partake in such rituals, your beliefs must be rock solid. The villagers see it as an honor, not a challenge,” Varun says.
Similarly, the ‘Xeni Uzzo’ festival in Malcornem sees men scaling areca nut trees, hurling flaming sheni (cow dung) cakes at one another. Bare-chested, they dance amid the fire—a breathtaking display of courage and belief.
Shigmotsav’s Unique Traditions
Photographer Daniel Dsouza captures the sheer energy of these celebrations. “Each festival has its own character,” he notes. ‘Shidyotsav’ features men suspended from rotating poles, while ‘Karvalyo’ celebrates womanhood. ‘Viramel’ showcases martial arts in honor of warriors, and ‘Ghode Modni’ sees dancers wielding swords atop wooden horse effigies, paying tribute to Goa’s valorous past.
The Grandeur of Shigmotsav Awaits
As Shigmotsav sweeps through Goa, the state readies itself for a cultural transformation unlike any other. Whether through firewalking, spectral dances, or vibrant parades, the festival is a living testament to Goa’s enduring spirit and timeless traditions.
This year, step beyond the well-trodden tourist paths and witness the rare, thrilling, and deeply spiritual side of Goa’s grandest festival. Shigmotsav isn’t just a carnival—it’s a testament to faith, tradition, and the daring heart of Goa.