Deep in the heart of Mumbai’s legendary Mohammed Ali Road, a vibrant, food-laden wonderland emerges every Ramadan. As dusk falls, the alleyways of Bohri Mohalla awaken, sizzling with the aromas of centuries-old recipes passed down through generations.
Bohri Mohalla, named after the Dawoodi Bohra community that migrated from Gujarat and Yemen in the 20th century, has become a beacon of Mumbai’s Ramadan spirit. Over time, it has evolved into a culinary landmark, embodying the city’s festive food culture. Behind the doors of its legendary eateries, treasures await discovery.
A Sensory Overload of Flavors
Visitors stepping into these bustling bylanes are instantly struck by an overwhelming sensory experience—the intoxicating aroma of grilled meats, the rhythmic clatter of woks, and the symphony of sizzling oil. To navigate this labyrinth of flavors, many turn to Aditya Lakshay from Khaki Tours. A seasoned storyteller, he leads heritage walks across Mumbai, serving up history with a generous side of trivia.
“We visit around 12 places, alternating between sweet and savory,” Aditya explains, guiding food lovers through the culinary maze.
The Journey Begins: Seekh Kebabs and Sweet Surprises
The first stop is Nawab Seekh Corner, where visitors sink their teeth into succulent seekh kebabs, perfectly spiced and encased in warm, flaky parathas. But the adventure has just begun.
Next, at J J Jalebi, an institution since 1947, an unexpected twist awaits. Here, a hickory-colored dessert appears to be jalebi but tastes exactly like a gulab jamun. “These are spiral versions of gulab jamun,” Aditya clarifies, explaining that this treat originates from Burhanpur, Madhya Pradesh—also the original resting place of Mumtaz Mahal before her tomb was moved to Agra.
Pulao, Bazaars, and a Brush with History
At Salman Pulao, fragrant chicken and beef pulao take center stage, paired with a side of history. Aditya quizzes visitors on the difference between pulao and biryani before leading them into Chor Bazaar, Mumbai’s legendary flea market. “The name is debated,” he muses. “One theory claims it was once called ‘Shor Bazaar’ (Noisy Market), which morphed into ‘Chor Bazaar.’ Another states that Queen Victoria’s stolen violin was found here.” Considering she never visited India, the latter is likely a myth.
Trickster Drinks and Samosa Showdowns
At Imam Sharbathwala, another imposter is encountered—a watermelon milk sharbat disguised in bright orange hues. This 99-year-old stall has moved locations several times, but its legend remains firmly rooted.
Further down, Diamond Samosa, a 68-year-old haven for crispy delights, presents a difficult choice—kheema samosa, samosa pattis, spring rolls, or wontons. The kheema samosa, with its rich and spicy filling, is a standout favorite.
Sweet Mysteries and the Tale of Bhendi Bazaar
At Noor Sweets, visitors indulge in flaky malai khaja and delicate sutarfeni. As they relish the sugary layers, Aditya shares another history tidbit: “Where did ‘Bhendi Bazaar’ get its name?”
Theories abound. Some claim it’s a British corruption of ‘Behind the Bazaar,’ as it was located behind Crawford Market. Others believe it’s named after ‘bhindi’ (lady’s finger), once unloaded from boats nearby. Either way, the area is steeped in history.
Chicken Kastoori Sandwich, Slow-Cooked Meat, and Biryani Reimagined
At Jilani Fast Food Corner, the chicken kastoori sandwich infused with the distinctive bitterness of kasoori methi, sourced from Pakistan, is a must-try. The chicken baida roti, an egg-wrapped, spice-laden flatbread, is equally spectacular.
Then comes Surti 12 Handi, an experience in itself. Twelve massive pots, each simmering different cuts of meat—paya (trotters), pichota (tail), nihari (stomach), jubaan (tongue), and bheja (brain)—are slow-cooked to perfection. It’s a feast for the adventurous.
Sweet relief arrives at Shabbir Tawakkal, where visitors indulge in malpua (sweet pancakes) and phirni (rice pudding). At Firoz Farsan, they encounter patrel chicken biryani, a unique version featuring steamed colocasia leaves instead of rice. The final savory stop, Idris Cold Drinks, provides a refreshing close with variyali, a fennel-based, kiwi-green drink.
The Final Test: Goat Udders and Hand-Churned Ice Cream
At Haji Tikka, diners face their greatest challenge—a dish made from goat udders. “You’ll either love it or hate it. No middle ground,” Aditya warns. It’s an acquired taste, to say the least.
To cleanse the palate, the journey ends at the legendary Taj Ice Cream, once frequented by Bollywood icon Madhubala. Established in 1887, it still churns out creamy, fruity scoops in a time-honored copper sancha (canister). A scoop of hand-churned nostalgia serves as the perfect finale to an unforgettable night.
A Night to Remember
As visitors walk away from the neon-lit streets of Mohammed Ali Road, they carry more than just a full stomach. They have feasted on history, indulged in flavors both familiar and daring, and followed in the footsteps of generations who made this food haven what it is today.
For those in Mumbai during Ramadan, taking this walk, savoring these flavors, and immersing in the magic of Mohammed Ali Road is an experience not to be missed.