By Anjali Solanki
Ratlami Sev, a crispy and spicy snack hailing from Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh, holds a cherished place in India’s culinary heritage. In an exclusive interview, Ankush Khandelwal, a seasoned sev businessman from Ratlam, shared the fascinating history of this beloved namkeen. Originating over a century ago, Ratlami Sev was born when Mughal emperors, passing through the Malwa region in the 19th century, requested a local snack made with available ingredients. the precursor to today’s Ratlami Sev, crafted from gram flour (besan) and a unique blend of spices like black pepper, cloves, ajwain, and asafoetida. Khandelwal emphasized that the distinct flavor of Ratlami Sev owes much to Ratlam’s climate, water, and traditional handcrafted methods, which have been passed down through generations.
The Art of Crafting Authentic Ratlami Sev
Ankush Khandelwal detailed the meticulous process behind authentic Ratlami Sev. Workers blend gram flour with spices and water to form a tough dough, which is extruded through a sev press into hot oil, creating thin, crispy strands. The recipe, he noted, relies on high-quality ingredients like groundnut oil and a precise spice mix, ensuring the snack’s signature tangy and spicy profile. Unlike mass-produced versions, Ratlam’s sev makers prioritise authenticity, avoiding preservatives and palm oil. Khandelwal proudly shared that his family’s business, like many in Ratlam, adheres to these traditional methods, maintaining the snack’s cultural integrity.
The Supply Chain Challenges
Discussing the supply chain, Khandelwal highlighted the struggles faced by Ratlam’s traders. Local producers rely on small-scale operations, supplying to regional markets and, increasingly, online platforms. However, transportation costs, limited marketing resources, and competition from larger cities like Indore pose significant hurdles. He explained that while Ratlam’s sev enjoys a loyal customer base, scaling up without compromising quality remains a challenge for small businesses. The Geographical Indication (GI) tag, granted to Ratlami Sev under India’s IPR Act, helps protect its authenticity, but Khandelwal believes more support is needed to boost local trade.
Big Brands and Indore’s Influence Poses a Challenge
Khandelwal didn’t shy away from voicing his concerns about the damage inflicted by big brands and Indore’s snack industry. He criticized companies for producing what he calls “inauthentic” Ratlami Sev, using cheaper ingredients and deviating from traditional recipes. According to Khandelwal, these mass-produced versions dilute the snack’s reputation, misleading consumers about its true taste. He lamented that Indore, often marketed as the hub for Ratlami Sev, overshadows Ratlam’s small-scale vyaparis, whose voices go unheard. This competition has led to a decline in the livelihoods of local workers making sev, with many struggling to compete against the branding and distribution might of larger companies.
Recognition and Revival
Ankush Khandelwal’s passion for Ratlami Sev reflects the pride of an entire community. He urges consumers to seek authentic sev directly from Ratlam and calls for government support to promote local vyaparis. By preserving tradition and amplifying their voices, Khandelwal believes Ratlami Sev can reclaim its rightful place as a culinary gem, untainted by commercial imitations.