As winter sets in across West Bengal, a distinctive sweetness fills the air, heralding the arrival of nolen gur, a seasonal delicacy cherished for generations. Harvested from the sap of date and palm trees, this golden jaggery holds a unique place in Bengali culture. However, with modernization and changing lifestyles, the traditional art of making nolen gur is fading. Enter Senjuti Mahato and Abhishek Choudhury, the founders of Earth Story Farms, who are on a mission to revive and preserve this age-old craft, ensuring that authentic nolen gur reaches households across India.
A Shared Passion for Authentic Food
Both Senjuti and Abhishek have deep roots in West Bengal’s cultural fabric. Senjuti, a JNU political science graduate with over seventeen years in advertising, possesses a keen understanding of market trends and consumer behavior. Meanwhile, Abhishek, an IIM Calcutta MBA graduate, has spent years working in community development and sustainability.
“What really concerned us was the uncertainty about the authenticity of our food,” says Senjuti. “We realized that many traditional ingredients were being replaced by processed alternatives, and we wanted to change that. Our goal is to make clean eating a culture.”
This vision led them to establish Earth Story Farms in 2020, with a commitment to producing and promoting pure, natural food sourced directly from the land.
Earth Story Farms: Keeping Tradition Alive
The heart of Earth Story Farms lies in Bankura, a region renowned for its ideal climate—cold temperatures and clear skies—perfect for nolen gur production. “The making of nolen gur is not just about producing a sweet product, it is an art form that is deeply connected to the rhythms of nature,” says Senjuti.
The process begins with the skilled shiulis (local farmers) who carefully tap date palm trees to collect the sap. “The first incision is made just before sunset, allowing the sap to flow into earthen pots overnight,” explains Abhishek. By morning, the collected sap is transferred to a woodfire cooking unit, where it is slowly thickened into liquid jaggery (‘jhola gur’) or solid jaggery (‘patali gur’).
“The delicate balance of time, heat, and craftsmanship ensures that the final product retains its rich flavor and natural sweetness, unlike mass-produced jaggery that often contains preservatives and artificial additives,” Abhishek adds.
Sustainability and Year-Round Livelihoods
One of the key challenges in nolen gur production is that it is a seasonal activity, typically limited to winter months when the sap flows freely. However, Earth Story Farms has expanded its product range, ensuring year-round employment for over 80 artisans, including 50 shiulis who collect sap and 35 jaggery artisans responsible for cooking and shaping the final product.
“As gur artisans, our biggest concern was securing a steady livelihood,” says Mintu (45), a farmer and gur artisan. “Thanks to Earth Story Farms, we now have year-round work, crafting different jaggery products suited to each season.”
For Prakash (27), a farmer, this venture has been life-changing. “Earth Story Farms has given us the opportunity to work in our own village, without having to migrate to cities. We can now sustain ourselves while preserving our traditional craft.”
Bringing Nolen Gur to Modern Homes
While nolen gur remains their signature product, Earth Story Farms offers a range of traditional and innovative products, including:
- Sundarbans’ authentic honey
- Handcrafted pickles
- Pure cow ghee
- Kasundi (Bengali mustard sauce)
- Spiced gur haldi latte – a modern health drink blending turmeric and nolen gur
Their efforts have received enthusiastic responses from customers. Syeda Sufia Hasan, a recent buyer, recalls purchasing patali gur for her father. “The moment he tasted it, he was transported back to his childhood. The jaggery’s richness and purity are unmatched.”
A Balance Between Tradition and Innovation
While Earth Story Farms remains deeply committed to traditional methods, they have embraced modern innovation in their packaging and distribution. “We keep the production methods traditional but adapt the presentation for today’s consumers. For example, instead of large circular blocks, we offer patali gur in convenient cubes for easy use in home kitchens,” says Senjuti.
Abhishek adds, “People are returning to traditional, healthy eating. While the shift is gradual, we believe the demand for authentic, natural foods will only grow.”
The Road Ahead
Beyond reviving nolen gur, Earth Story Farms aims to preserve other endangered traditional foods and ensure that future generations appreciate their cultural and health benefits. “It’s not just about selling a product; it’s about connecting people to their culinary heritage and the natural goodness of real food,” says Abhishek.
With their deep-rooted passion and commitment, Senjuti Mahato and Abhishek Choudhury are ensuring that nolen gur remains a beloved staple in homes across India—one sweet, golden bite at a time.