When we think of tea in India, sprawling British-established plantations often come to mind. However, long before the British East India Company set its sights on Assam’s fertile lands, indigenous tribes like the Singphos had already cultivated and consumed tea in their daily lives. Their deep-rooted traditions challenge the widely held belief that tea culture in India is purely a colonial legacy.
The Singpho Legacy: India’s Original Tea Connoisseurs
The Singpho tribe, residing in parts of Northeast India, Myanmar, and China, have been brewing tea for centuries—possibly since as early as the 12th century. Their age-old techniques involve heating tea leaves in a metal pan until they turn brown, sun-drying them for several days, and then packing them tightly into bamboo tubes to be smoked over a fire. After about a week, the processed tea hardens into the shape of bamboo, resulting in a distinctive flavor cherished by the community.
Phalap: A Timeless Tradition
This traditional tea, known as phalap, holds a special place in Singpho culture. According to local oral traditions, the name phalap is derived from the words pha or kha, meaning “what,” and lap, meaning “leaf.” Legend has it that two weary brothers, exhausted from their travels, chewed on an unknown leaf that miraculously rejuvenated them—leading to the discovery of tea.
The British Encounter with Indigenous Tea
By the early 19th century, the British were eager to break China’s monopoly on tea. British adventurer Robert Bruce, during his travels in Assam, learned of wild tea plants from Singpho chief Bessa Gaum (also spelled Bisa Gam). This encounter, which took place in the early 1820s, marked the beginning of British interest in Assam tea.
Later, another Singpho chief, Nigro La, took the first steps toward organized tea cultivation in Assam, introducing the native plant to the British. Recognizing the commercial potential, the British soon began large-scale tea plantations. Initially, they experimented with Chinese tea varieties, but over time, they found that the indigenous Camellia sinensis var. assamica, already used by the Singphos, was better suited to the region’s climate.
From Singpho Traditions to Global Fame
Assam’s tea industry flourished under colonial rule, but its foundations were built on the knowledge and practices of indigenous communities. While British enterprises propelled Indian tea onto the world stage, the Singpho people were the original custodians of Assam’s tea heritage.
Today, there are ongoing efforts to preserve and celebrate these traditional tea-making practices. Cultural historians and tea enthusiasts are documenting the artisanal methods used by the Singpho tribe to ensure that this rich heritage is not overshadowed by commercial tea production.
Preserving a Rich Heritage
The unique flavor of phalap offers a window into India’s diverse tea traditions, reminding us that the story of tea in India is as varied and complex as the country itself. While the British played a significant role in popularizing tea cultivation, it is crucial to recognize and honor indigenous tribes like the Singphos, who were the region’s original tea artisans. Their centuries-old traditions not only highlight India’s deep-rooted connection to tea but also challenge the narrative that tea culture in India began solely with colonial intervention.
By appreciating and preserving these indigenous traditions, we not only honor the past but also ensure that the true legacy of Indian tea continues to thrive for generations to come.