Some cities stay with you, weaving their essence into your soul. Delhi—ancient yet ever-evolving—has done just that for me. When I first left for Mumbai, I felt the weight of parting, as if the city itself whispered, urging me to stay. But now, twelve years later, I find myself once again reluctant to leave. The city has held me in its quiet corners, through lonely nights, offering solace, history, and a sense of belonging.
Jan Morris, the celebrated historian, once wrote, “Tombs of emperors stand beside traffic junctions, forgotten fortresses command suburbs, the titles of lost dynasties are woven into the vernacular, if only as street names.” This is Delhi—a city that has grown in leaps and bounds but still holds its ruins close, whispering stories of its past to those who pause to listen.
Razia Sultan’s Tomb: A Hidden Legacy
Amidst the labyrinthine alleys of Turkman Gate lies the unassuming resting place of Razia Sultan, the only woman to rule Delhi during the Sultanate period. No grand dome marks her tomb, no streams of tourists flock here. Instead, locals guide curious visitors through winding lanes to find a simple, roofless enclosure with two graves—one believed to belong to her sister, Saziya. Surrounded by encroaching houses, this tomb, though neglected, stands as a quiet testament to a ruler who defied norms and carved her place in history.
Dadi-Poti Gumbad: The Tale of Two Tombs
On the busy road leading to Hauz Khas Village, two small domed structures stand as silent observers of time. The Dadi-Poti (Grandmother-Granddaughter) tombs are relics from two different eras—the smaller, built during the Tughlaq period (1321-1414), and the larger, from the Lodi period (1451-1526). Though their true inhabitants remain unknown, these structures stand resilient, their sloping walls whispering tales of dynasties past.
Sikander Lodi’s Tomb: The First Garden Tomb of Delhi
If you’ve ever strolled through Lodhi Garden’s verdant paths, you’ve walked in the shadow of history. Amidst the greenery stands Sikander Lodi’s tomb, an architectural precursor to the famed Humayun’s Tomb and, later, the Taj Mahal. Built in 1517 by his son Ibrahim Lodi, the octagonal tomb is adorned with deep verandas and towering arches. With its double dome and south-facing gateway, it marks the dawn of Delhi’s garden tombs, where nature and legacy intertwine.
Iltutmish’s Tomb: A Forgotten Jewel in the Qutub Complex
Nestled within the Qutub Complex, near the grand extensions of the Qutub Mosque, lies a gem that many overlook—the tomb of Shams-ud-Din Iltutmish, the visionary ruler of the Slave Dynasty. Built in 1235, this sandstone tomb stands on a raised platform, its walls adorned with intricate Kufic and Nakshi calligraphy. Though originally covered by a dome, time has left it open to the sky, adding to its mystique. British-era scholar Colonel Ferguson once described it as “one of the richest examples of Hindu art applied to Mohammedan purposes.”
Ghalib Ki Haveli: Echoes of a Poet’s Soul
Wander into the bylanes of Ballimaran, and you’ll find yourself at Ghalib Ki Haveli, the former residence of Mirza Ghalib, one of Urdu’s greatest poets. This 19th-century haveli, with its arched corridors and courtyard, still exudes the poet’s charm. Inside, relics of his life remain—a statue of Ghalib with a hookah in hand, walls inscribed with his couplets, and an old-world atmosphere that transports you back to an era of poetic grandeur.
Though Ghalib’s words still echo in the heart of Delhi, his tomb in Nizamuddin Basti remains in a sorrowful state, a reminder of how the city reveres its past yet often forgets to preserve it. But perhaps, as he himself wrote, “I asked my soul, what is Delhi?/ She replied: The world is the body, and Delhi its soul.”
Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb: Home of Sufi Saints and Jinns
In the heart of the Mehrauli Archaeological Complex lie the hauntingly beautiful ruins of the Jamali Kamali mosque and tomb. Built in 1528, this site housed Sufi saint and poet Sheikh Fazlullah (Jamali) and his enigmatic companion Kamali. While Jamali finds mention in history, Kamali remains a mystery—fueling legends that swirl around this site.
The architecture is striking, showcasing a blend of Mughal, Rajput, and Sultanate influences. The delicate lotus motifs and intricately carved arches set it apart as one of the most captivating mosques of its time. But beyond its architectural splendor, the site has gained notoriety as one of India’s most haunted places, drawing thrill-seekers and believers alike, who claim to hear whispers in the dead of night.
Delhi’s Eternal Embrace
Delhi is not just a city; it is a living, breathing archive of history. From the grandeur of emperors to the quiet legacy of poets, its walls whisper stories waiting to be heard. As Mir Taqi Mir wrote:
“Dilli jo ek sheher tha aalam me intekhab,
Rehte the muntakhib hi jahan rozgaar ke.
Jis ko falak ne loot ke veeran kar diya,
Hum rehne wale hain usi ujde dayar ke.”
(Delhi, that was a city unique in the world, where only the chosen of time once lived. Fate has plundered it and left it desolate, yet I remain—bound to this forsaken home.)
And so, even as I prepare to leave once more, I know that a part of me will always remain here, listening to the echoes of its past, held in the eternal embrace of this unforgettable city.