Kolhapuri sandals, known for their distinctive T-strap and braided leather design, trace their origins back to at least the 12th century in the Kolhapur region of Maharashtra, India. Initially created under the patronage of local rulers like King Bijjala and his adviser Basavanna, they’re traditionally handcrafted by cobblers using buffalo or cowhide, tanned with vegetable dyes. These durable, artisan-made sandals are often heavy and built to endure tough terrains, reflecting generations of regional craftsmanship.
Over centuries, figures like Chhatrapati Shahu and Rajaram II actively supported the craft, establishing tanning centers and boosting production across Maharashtra and Karnataka. Each pair, shaped entirely by hand, can take up to six weeks to complete. Though mostly utilitarian and priced between ₹300–₹1,500 in local markets, modern variants now incorporate decorative elements like gota, zari, braiding, and pom-poms, making them suitable for weddings and global fashionistas.
Maharashtra’s Pride Goes Global – and Sparks Controversy
In June 2025, luxury fashion house Prada debuted sandals strikingly similar to Kolhapuris during Milan Fashion Week. Initially labeled as “leather sandals,” they were styled with shorts and track pants, priced around ₹1.2 lakh (€1,200, ~$844). The design closely mirrored traditional artisans’ work, igniting worldwide social media backlash over cultural appropriation and luxury profiteering at the expense of Indian heritage.
Public outcry reached a fever pitch: netizens called it “shameless cash grab” and “cultural theft” – especially since original chappals cost under ₹1,500. Politicians and artisans from Kolhapur demanded recognition, fair compensation, and legal action to uphold the product’s Geographical Indication (GI) status, which it received in 2019.
In response to the uproar, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s CSR head, issued a letter acknowledging the inspiration from Indian handcrafted footwear. He expressed openness to dialogue and proposed collaboration with artisan communities via the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce. However, artisans argue that recognition alone isn’t enough; they want legal safeguards, sustainable partnerships, and financial benefits to protect their craft from exploitation .
Where Do We Go from Here?
This controversy is more than a fashion kerfuffle – it’s a pivotal moment highlighting the tension between cultural appreciation and appropriation. It underscores the need for global fashion brands to ethically source inspiration and respect the origins of traditional designs. As Indian artisans advocate for patent protections, GI enforcement, and collaborative ventures, this incident could serve as a catalyst for establishing equitable models in the fashion industry .
Kolhapuri sandals are not just footwear – they’re a testament to centuries of craftsmanship, cultural identity, and regional pride. As they step onto global runways, let’s ensure that recognition, remuneration, and respect walk alongside them.