Tiwai, meaning “Big Island” in the Mende language, may cover just 11.9 sq km, but it shelters a treasure trove of biodiversity. Nestled in Sierra Leone’s Moa River, the island is home to rare pygmy hippos, endangered chimpanzees, and one of the densest primate populations in the world. Its recent recognition as Sierra Leone’s first Unesco World Heritage Site marks a new chapter for the country’s natural heritage.
Getting to Tiwai is not for the faint-hearted. From the bustling capital of Freetown, travellers first cover 240km on tarmac before spending hours jolting along rust-red dirt tracks, scarred with potholes, to reach the Moa River. The final leg is a dugout canoe crossing, often navigated by torchlight in the inky darkness of night. It is a journey that demands patience and grit – but the rewards are unmatched.
Upon arrival, visitors discover a hidden wilderness camp tucked among towering rainforest trees, curling liana vines, and bamboo that pierces the sky like spears. The camp itself is simple and off-grid: mesh-sided wooden huts fitted with mosquito-netted beds, a communal bandstand-style eating space, and a rustic shower block. There are no frills, no luxuries – but then, that is not what draws people here.
Instead, travellers come for the chance to experience an untamed corner of ancient West African rainforest. At night, the air fills with the symphony of insects, bird calls, and the occasional rustle of unseen wildlife. By day, guided treks reveal some of the island’s most elusive inhabitants – from shy pygmy hippos that slip silently through the riverbanks to the vibrant primate species that swing through the canopy overhead.
With Unesco’s recognition, Tiwai Island and the surrounding Gola Rainforest National Park now stand as symbols of Sierra Leone’s ecological richness and its commitment to conservation. For the adventurous traveller, this remote isle offers not just a rare glimpse of endangered wildlife, but also the chance to step back into a world where the rainforest still reigns supreme.