The term “Phulkari,” a word hailing from the Punjabi vocabulary, is a fusion of two eloquent words: “Phul” meaning ‘flower’ and “Kari” meaning ‘work.’ Thus, Phulkari eloquently translates to ‘flower work’ or ‘floral work.’ Originating in the 15th century within the heart of Punjab, this vibrant embroidery style was pioneered by the skilled hands of Punjab’s women. It emerged as a rural handcrafted tradition that resonates with the essence of Punjab’s folk culture.
Although Phulkari suggests a floral focus, it encapsulates much more than mere blossoms. This artistry extends to encompass various motifs, geometrical patterns, and shapes. Vibrant and vivacious, Phulkari breathes life and color into the everyday existence of people. Its fame has spread far beyond Punjab, captivating hearts across the globe. Crafted predominantly by women, Phulkari embodies a celebration of womanhood, a testament to their creativity and skill.
The inception of Phulkari carries with it a tapestry of theories and narratives. While it is said to have been prevalent across different regions, it found its stronghold in Punjab. Some theories trace its roots to Iran, where it was referred to as “Gulkari,” echoing the same floral essence. However, a distinct difference in style sets Phulkari apart. Another theory suggests that the Jat tribes introduced this art form during their migration to India, settling in Punjab, Gujarat, and Haryana. Despite these diverse narratives, the earliest written reference to “Phulkari” appears in the 18th-century Punjabi literature. Waris Shah’s rendition of “Heer Ranjha,” a poignant Punjabi tragic romance, offers glimpses of this traditional artistry, evoking images of bridal attire adorned with Phulkari embroidery. This legacy also finds mention in the Mahabharata, Vedas, Guru Granth Sahib, and in the melodies of Punjabi folk songs.
The heart of Phulkari’s history beats within the customs and traditions of Punjab. In bygone times, the birth of a girl was celebrated with the commencement of Phulkari embroidery. Mothers and grandmothers would diligently embroider these masterpieces, believing that their daughters would be the creators of generations to come. These Phulkaris, lovingly created, would be presented to the daughters at the time of their weddings. This tradition, interwoven with status, saw parents offering dowries ranging from 11 to 101 Baghs and Phulkaris.
Phulkari’s craftsmanship was traditionally intertwined with purity and durability, making use of silk and Mulmul fabrics. The intricate artistry reflected the virtues and character of the creator. Formerly reserved for personal use, Phulkaris adorned women during weddings, festivals, and joyous occasions, adding vibrancy to their lives. This domestic art was a canvas for women to express their creativity, infusing their daily routines with hues of exuberance.
Over time, Phulkari weathered adversities and resurged from the ashes. In the aftermath of the partition in 1947, this tradition found renewed life as organizations encouraged women to create Phulkaris to sustain their families in the face of the refugee crisis. While hand embroidery was the norm, modern techniques and materials have introduced machine embroidery, allowing for greater accessibility and flexibility in creation.
The Phulkari embroidery technique is a harmony of colors and craftsmanship. Employing a darn stitch on coarse cotton cloth known as “khaddar,” vibrant silken threads bring life to this canvas. The stitches intertwine in symmetrical designs, creating a signature aesthetic. In the past, Phulkari adorned shawls and odhnis, but today, it graces sarees and churidar kameez, evolving with the times while retaining its essence. The thread by thread weaving forms a geometric grid, resulting in exquisite motifs and intricate borders.
The artistry of Phulkari is amplified through colors. Four colors of khaddar—white, red, blue, and black—each held significance. White symbolized the elderly and widows, red embodied young girls and brides-to-be, while blue and black hues were for daily wear. The red shade, synonymous with youthful passion, orange representing energy, and white signifying purity, each color infused Phulkari with deeper meanings.
Motifs drawn from imagination, nature, and daily life are the heart of Phulkari. Belans (rolling pins), kakhri (cucumbers), chandrama (moon), and satranga (seven colors) are just a few examples. From mundane objects to vibrant landscapes, these motifs wove emotions and creativity into every thread. Different types of Phulkari, such as Thirma, Darshan Dwar, Bawan Bagh, Vari-da-bagh, and more, manifest distinct narratives within this artistic legacy.
The journey of Phulkari is one of resilience, evolution, and timelessness. It lives on as a testament to the tenacity of tradition amidst a changing world, its vibrant threads weaving a connection between generations and cultures. From the hands of women to the realm of high fashion, Phulkari continues to illuminate with its beauty and heritage.